At the top of the Esquiline Hill, where stone and faith have embraced for centuries, an ancient gesture has resurfaced this week in the Italian capital: the pilgrimage to the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Under the warm Roman sun, thousands of tourists, faithful, and locals have approached its doors this Tuesday, hoping to see the temple that Pope Francis chose as his final resting place, sign the condolences book, and honor his memory in the presence of God.
"Choosing Santa Maria over San Pedro to be buried is an act of simplicity that sums up his papacy and speaks volumes about the person he was: humble, approachable, human... He was one of us." These words come from Dani and Lucía, a young couple from Extremadura in their twenties who are traveling in northern Italy. They arrived in the Eternal City on Monday, almost at the same time the Pontiff's death was announced, and they were determined to visit the place where, after his funeral this Saturday, Jorge Mario Bergoglio will rest in peace.
The spiritual heart of Christianity, this temple held a special meaning for the Pope. It was there where, on the first day of his pontificate, he prayed before the Virgin Salus Populi Romani, the most venerated Marian icon, which presides over the Pauline Chapel. That gesture would become a constant: he repeated it more than 115 times throughout his papacy, entrusting his apostolic journeys - visiting her before departing and upon returning to the Vatican - as well as the major events of the Church, to the protection of the Virgin Mary. It was his way of giving thanks and seeking shelter, following a Jesuit tradition that dates back to the origins of the Society of Jesus, whose members promoted Marian devotion and spread copies of the icon worldwide.
"Perhaps the news hasn't impacted us as much as it would have on another date," explains Lucía, who appreciates the symbolism of Francis' passing "right after Easter." "But it still moves us," Dani continues, "because the values of the Church were greatly reflected in him." "His message that we are all equal is what we should always carry with us," Lucía concludes, now at the door of the Sforza Chapel, in the lateral nave of the basilica.
A few meters away, before reaching the Pauline Chapel, rests an imposing structure of conglomerate wood. "Do you know what that is?" they ask the reporter. "That is where the Pope will rest," explains a custodian, who confirms to us that we are the first ones he has informed of the exact location of his burial place. The presence of the photographer, capturing several images from different angles, causes several visitors to stop and observe. They understand that they are facing what will soon be a very sacred place: the niche between the Pauline and Sforza Chapels.
The Pope's desire to be buried in this basilica was expressed on several occasions, even admitting that this temple was "his great devotion", but the first time was during an interview with Mexican journalist Valentina Alazraki for the N+ channel of Televisa in December 2023. "When I pass away, they will not bury me in San Pedro, but in Santa Maria Maggiore. The Vatican is the house of my last service, not of eternity," revealed the Church leader, a request he reiterated in his will, made public this Monday, in which he not only expressed his wish to be buried there but also the exact location where he wanted to rest.
"I have always entrusted my life and my priestly and episcopal ministry to the Mother of Our Lord, Santa Maria. Therefore, I ask that my mortal remains rest awaiting the day of resurrection in the Papal Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore," reads the Pontiff's last will. "I ask that my tomb be prepared in the niche of the lateral nave between the Pauline Chapel [Chapel of the Salus Populi Romani] and the Sforza Chapel of the aforementioned basilica as indicated in the attached annex."
"After a few minutes, a diocesan priest appears to record the atmosphere. His name is Rubén Martínez, and he is from the Redemptoris Mater Diocesan Missionary Seminary of Pamplona. Unlike most visitors to the city these days, he came specifically after learning of Francis' passing on Monday. "I arrived this morning and came almost directly to Santa Maria Maggiore," he explains to this newspaper. "Tomorrow we want to go see his body in San Pedro, but unfortunately, we return to Spain on Friday, so we will miss the funeral."
The priest admits to receiving the news "with surprise" after "having seen him on Sunday at the Urbi et Orbi," but acknowledges that "it was expected when looking at his face." Despite what some might think, he does not receive the news with sadness, but with "hope": "I am not here to be sad. This time I will not see the Pope in his tomb, but I was in front of where he will be, and the next time I come, he will be there. Perhaps then I will be moved, but it will be from joy, not sadness."
Several days remain to know Bergoglio's successor at the helm of the Church, but Martínez does not want to miss the opportunity to emphasize that it will be "the Holy Spirit who will choose him, not the cardinals according to a certain right-wing or left-wing ideology, as the press often says."
"At this moment, the Holy Spirit needed a reformist Pope, as Francis has been, but also serious, dedicated, and open, qualities that are often not mentioned but should be highlighted," he adds. "The important thing now is that we have a new Pope who, like Francis, will fight for peace, for life, and for the family, because that is what society needs, united with Jesus Christ, who is the Savior," he concludes.
At the exit of the basilica, a line of people eager to leave a message of condolence or gratitude to the Pontiff begins to form. Some are brief, while others seem more like essays, causing annoyance to more than one person. There patiently wait Marisol and Miguel Ángel, a couple from Barcelona who are passing through the city before returning to the Catalan city this Wednesday. Marisol records the moment of signing, happy to be able to participate in this unique event. "There is no Church that jumps, so here we have come, and finding this book and the photo of the Pope has been a pleasant surprise," she says, moments before the Bishop of Regensburg, Rudolf Voderholzer, begins a prayer in the presence of several German pilgrims.
Like them, thousands of people have made this visit a small act of faith and gratitude, in the same place where Francis chose to return forever: his refuge, his devotion, his home.