Philadelphia is the birthplace of the United States (where the Declaration of Independence from Great Britain and the Constitution were signed), of donuts (legend has it that a Dutch immigrant decided to make a hole in the middle of the dough for better frying and, voilà, invented the most famous bun of all time), of the country's first Thanksgiving Day Parade, of one of its first prisons (where, by the way, Al Capone, was imprisoned)... and of Rocky Balboa. Yes, the character immortalized by Sylvester Stallone on the big screen is born, lives, grows, and fights in Pennsylvania's largest city (1.5 million inhabitants). The accolades continue: it is also open, tolerant, graffiti-covered (with over 4,500 murals, being the world's largest outdoor art gallery), green, pedestrian-friendly, fun, and creative. Although it didn't always make things easy for the most famous boxer of all time in the movies.
Few characters have left such a mark on a place as Rocky has. And that's saying something considering that Philly (as the locals affectionately call their city) knows a lot about cinema. Not only because actors like Grace Kelly (Prince Albert of Monaco bought the mansion where his mother lived in the affluent East Falls area a few years ago), Richard Gere, Bradley Cooper, or Will Smith (the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air who came from a rough neighborhood on the outskirts in the popular 90s series before moving to Los Angeles with his uncles) were born here, but also because many other films that have made history were shot here. From The Sixth Sense to 12 Monkeys (both starring Bruce Willis) or Philadelphia, led by Tom Hanks, Denzel Washington, and a young Antonio Banderas, whose Bruce Springsteen's song, Streets of Philadelphia, won an Oscar.
The Witness was also filmed around here, the thriller starring Harrison Ford about the Amish (Lancaster, Pennsylvania, is home to the country's oldest ethno-religious group since 1730). But no film has surpassed the fame of Rocky, to the point that Stallone, a native New Yorker, is considered the city's favorite son. Since last year, Rocky even has his own day, December 3 (the date the first movie was released back in 1976), designated by the city council to represent the values of perseverance and overcoming the "American Dream" portrayed in the films.
Stallone has always been very proud of this recognition: "This day is incredible for me and for the people who have embraced Rocky in their hearts. When I'm in Philadelphia and I climb the stairs, it touches my soul as it did when I was younger. This is a very special place in a city. Believe me, there is no other place like this in the world."
He refers to the 2.6-meter-high, over 800-kilo bronze statue depicting the boxer with his arms raised in victory. It is located at the foot of the 72 steps (better known as the Rocky Steps) leading to the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the same steps the character climbed to the beat of the iconic song Gonna Fly Now by Bill Conti. Who hasn't tried to recreate the run at least once?
The statue, a true city icon, was created by American artist Thomas Schomberg and has been there since 1980 as part of the promotion for the movie Rocky III. It was initially meant to be temporary but was so well-received that it stayed permanently. The artist created three pieces by commission from Sylvester himself, who loved his work after seeing a series of sports-themed pieces he had done before. "He was clear that he wanted to have one in his home," explains the sculptor a stone's throw from the stairs. During the last edition of the Rocky Fest, the annual festival in honor of the boxer (yes, it exists and couldn't have any other name...), the same effigy was placed at the top of the stairs, right in front of the museum, as shown in the above photograph.
During the festival, fans of Balboa's adventures enjoy a movie marathon at the Film Society Center, pet meetups in honor of the boxer's mastiff, Butkus, autograph signings by personalities like John Rivoli, Rocky's official artist and creative director of Metro Goldwyn Mayer (MGM), or visits to key filming locations like the ice rink set up in winter, where the athlete and Adrian have their first romantic date. Fans also eagerly want to visit Rocky's apartment, located at 1818 Tusculum Street in the Kensington neighborhood, but beware, it is a private residence, so it's best not to disturb.
Undoubtedly, the iconic spot in Philadelphia paying tribute to the boxer is the aforementioned statue at the foot of the stairs, now surrounded by murals of other individuals who inspire positive values in the city. Among them are Chantay Love, founder of EMIR (Every Murder Is Real), an organization fighting against violence, Michelle Konkoly, a Paralympic champion dedicated to pediatric rehabilitation, or Joshua Santiago, who defends the dignity of the underprivileged by providing free haircuts to homeless individuals through the company Empowering Cuts. These murals were painted by the renowned local artist Ash Ryan. Stallone addressed them and the general public in a statement: "Believe it or not, all of you are true Rockys because you try to do the best you can in your lives and keep fighting."
Also, next to the statue, a Philadelphia Visitors Center has been opened, where movie buffs can find all kinds of information and products related to Rocky. "For years, tourists came to take a photo with the statue, but there was nothing else to welcome them. Now, maps, services, information are offered..." explains Maita Soukup, head of the entity. This is where the Rocky Bus Tour organized by the Center and the tour company WeVenture Tours starts. During 90 minutes, it visits key locations from the saga such as Laurel Hill Cemetery, where you can see the fictitious graves of Adrian and his brother-in-law, Paul Paulie Pennino, from the sequel Creed. The stop includes an explanation of the cemetery's history (established in 1836), as a National Historic Landmark, where one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence of the United States, Thomas Mckean, and David Rittenhouse, the country's first Mint Director, are also buried.
It would be the first stop on the route that continues in front of Mighty Mick's Gym, located at 2147 North Front Street, where old Mickey Goldmill trained his pupils. It is right next to the elevated train that appears so well reflected in the tapes and very close to the pet store where Adrian worked (J&M Tropical Fish), from where they came as much as Butkus as the turtles Hook and Direct or the fish Moby Dick. Two steps away is also the Lucky Seven Tavern, at 2779 Kensington Avenue, another must on the itinerary, although it is said that the inside of the bar was actually in Los Angeles. In between stops, WeVenture Tours guides play Rocky Trivia by asking fans questions, many of them prize-worthy. What day do Rocky and Adrian have their first date? Who pushes Micky, the trainer, before he suffers a heart attack? How much money does Balboa make in the fight against Spider Rico?
The itinerary continues in the Italian Market, the neighborhood in the north of the city created by emigrants from the Alpine country who now alternate their businesses (especially food, whether restaurants, taverns, bars or stores) with those of mainly Latin American citizens. There, among his stalls of stalls, Rocky trains incessantly while the neighbors greet him and cheer him on. The gossip has it that more than one angry neighbor threw fruit at him as he passed by, fed up with the fact that the streets had to be cut off several times during the filming.
Once here, and as a culmination, the best thing to do is to sign up for the gastronomic tours organized by chef Jackquie Kelly, creator of StrEats of Philly, a tour of the best culinary recommendations of the Italian Market. You can try the fluffy panettone and cannoli (sweet rolls filled with mascarpone cheese typical of Sicily) from Isgro Pastries; cheese, prosciutto (a kind of cooked ham) and salami from the Di Bruno Bros. store; premium meats from Esposito's Esposito's premium meats and poultry from the Di Bruno Bros. store; the premium meats of Esposito's or Paesano's and the tasty tacos and tortillas of Casa Mexico, where chef Cristina Fernandez, who has managed to carve out a niche for herself with her country's cuisine based on organic ingredients and ancestral techniques.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
HOW TO GET THERE
American Airlines has direct flights to Philadelphia from Madrid and Barcelona starting at 400 euros. The modern, comfortable and functional airport is very close to the city, just a 20-minute drive away.
WHERE TO STAY
Four Seasons Philadelphia. Located in the Comcast Center building, it offers not only a luxurious stay with all the amenities of a five-star hotel in its category, but one of the best views (and sunsets) of the city from many of the rooms and from the Jean-Georges restaurant, whose chef Colin Henderson offers a fine dining experience above the clouds.
Sonesta Philadelphia Rittenhouse Square. Centrally located and functional (at 1800 Market Street), it draws inspiration from art in its 439 guest rooms and in the lobby, which features a gallery with periodically changing artwork on display. There is a rooftop pool.
WHERE TO EAT
The Victor Café (1303 Dickinson Street). A fine Italian restaurant where the waiters sing opera between courses. Upstairs there is an area completely dedicated to Ricky Balboa, with photographs of the filming, many of them signed by the author, and articles related to the saga, since the place would become the legendary Adrian's restaurant in the movies, in tribute to the boxer's wife.
Pat's Steak (1237 Pasyunk Avenue). It is one of the best places to try the cheesesteak, the typical Philly beef and cheese sandwich. It is also the protagonist of Rocky, since he goes to the place with the gangster Tony Gazzo. A plaque on the floor commemorates him.
McGillin's Olde Ale House (1310 Drury Street). Another good place to try cheesteak. Not for nothing is it the oldest tavern in the city that has remained in operation, having opened in 1860.
Reading Terminal Market (1136 Arch Street). A must-visit gourmet market with stalls selling all kinds of local delicacies, both sweet and savory.
Italian Market (9th St). Neighborhood south of the city full of stores and restaurants of different nationalities, highlighting the Italian, as they were the first immigrants from this country to occupy it. The mythical scene of Rocky running through its streets is unforgettable.
MORE INFORMATION
On the website of the Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau (PHLCVB): www.discoverphl.com