Under the immense blue sky, crossing the endless plains of the Serengeti National Park, the largest protected area in Africa, is a dusty and thrilling adventure. Mile after mile, the eye trains to spot a solitary giraffe here, a group of gazelles there. The savannah may seem all the same at first, but it is not at all. Sometimes, as if it were a mirage, huge rocks appear out of nowhere. But the kopjes, the enigmatic rocky formations that dot the African landscape, are real. And in the plains of Togoro, halfway between Seronera and Lobo in the northern part of the Serengeti, there are very special kopjes. Lions lie on them to bask in the sun. The warmth of the stone pleases them. So far, everything is normal. What makes this corner of the park different is that among the rocks, there are 14 tents to spend the night, as well as a restaurant and a pool carved into the rocks with views of this wild scenery.
The thatched-roof tents of the lodge.
Togoro Plains is also one of the latest luxury camps to arrive in the Tanzanian national park. Opened last year, it is one of the lodges of Tanganyika Expeditions, a safari company established in the African country over 40 years ago and, at the same time, one of the most innovative in terms of respect for nature. The entire camp is powered by solar energy 24 hours a day. They also filter the water consumed by customers themselves and, unbelievably, use luxurious 4x4 vehicles that have been modified so that their engines are electric.
However, the most incredible thing about Togoro is that it is home to an entire pride of lions. Very social beasts that, far from being scared of travelers, have no problem coexisting with them, even drinking from the pool when no one is around to bother them. Coexistence is possible due to mutual respect, but also due to Togoro's constant vigilance. That's why, from the moment the traveler gets off the jeep, they are greeted by two people who will be their shadow whenever they move around the hotel grounds: a strange pair consisting of a ranger armed with a shotgun and a Maasai armed with traditional spears. There is nothing to fear, they insist. The Maasai explains that the sound of their spears clashing is enough to make the feline move on to another place with the music.
Above, a lioness on the porch of one of the tents. Below, the restaurant terrace.
Fátima, the camp director, shows the videos she keeps on her phone. In one, a lion is seen wandering right in front of one of the safari tents. In another, it is seen inside the bathroom area. In a third one, it is seen calmly drinking from the pool. "A pride of 16 felines lives in the surroundings. Last week, they killed a buffalo down there and they were eating it together for five days." The animal experience was fine until the word spread (it's always like that) and safari companies' 4x4 vehicles crowded to see it.
Denis Lebouteux, head of Tanganyika Expeditions, explains that this was a corner of the Serengeti coveted by many operators, but the National Park did not agree to lease it for years. It was only after the pandemic, in the need to boost tourism, that the possibility arose for this safari operator to set up a camp. "When I was given permission, I immediately started building it in case they changed their minds," Lebouteux says with a smile. "It is absolutely a unique place."
Beyond the surroundings, the stay at Togoro Plains is peaceful for the traveler. Common life takes place in the main lodge where the restaurant is located. Large black and white photos of felines give it a modern touch to the bohemian decoration and the always relaxed safari atmosphere. Comfortable sofas and a large fireplace are not lacking (nor is the wifi, something incredible but true). And you can dine on the terrace to keep an eye on the plain and its inhabitants. While these common areas are on top of the rocks, the 14 tents are at ground level. The thatched roof and beige color completely blend them with the endless savannah. It seems like a small city designed by George Lucas for his galactic saga. And the interior is also movie-like with spacious and comfortable beds, luxurious shower, and a wooden desk for each to write their Out of Africa memories.
The interior of one of the family tents.
How to get there. Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com) offers flights from Madrid (via Addis Ababa) to Kilimanjaro International Airport, the gateway to popular safari destinations.
More information. At Tanganyika Expeditions (www.tanganyika.com), the receptive operator specialized in Tanzania. They work with all travel agencies in Spain.