The fashion game continues. Following the announcement this morning of Donatella Versace's departure, passing the creative baton in the family brand to Dario Vitale, the successful head of Miu Miu, another luxury world tsunami hits: Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia leaves Balenciaga to become the unexpected creative director of Gucci.
This was announced just a few hours ago by the luxury group Kering, owner of both fashion houses, which had to bid farewell to Sabato de Sarno, the creative director of Gucci for the past two years, last February. Gvasalia's move is the latest in a series of designer changes in the major luxury fashion houses, shaking up the couture world this year. Also notable is the departure of Jonathan Anderson from Loewe.
The designer, who has been at the helm of the French house since 2015, will join the Italian brand starting in early July. "What Demna has brought to fashion, to Balenciaga, and to the group's success is immense. His creative strength is exactly what Gucci needs," stated François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering.
Demna himself expressed being "truly delighted" to join the Gucci family. "It is an honor to contribute to a house that I deeply respect and have admired for a long time. I am looking forward to writing a new chapter in Gucci's incredible story with Stefano (Cantino, CEO of Gucci) and the entire team," he declared.
Sabato de Sarno failed to turn around Gucci's poor numbers, which were boosted by Alessandro Michele, the group's golden goose; under his direction, the brand's revenue increased from 3 to 10 billion euros in just eight years. "I was the rocket's turbo at Gucci, but I was not aware of it," stated the designer, now creative director at Valentino; he left the brand two years ago due to disagreements with the management. "I suffered a lot, I admit, but I was prepared and faced the change. It's like when in a family you no longer recognize yourself, I think of a father who is no longer your reference point and does not let you be who you are: you have to emancipate yourself," he explained.
Since the departure of Sabato de Sarno, Alessandro Michele's successor, speculations about his possible replacement had been ongoing. The name that was most talked about was that of Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior's women's collections. Ultimately, 43-year-old Demna emerged victorious, despite his name rarely, if ever, being mentioned in the speculations; his appointment has surprised the fashion world.
Since Demna Gvasalia arrived at Balenciaga from his personal project, Vetements, controversy has not ceased. He has deconstructed jackets, coats, trenches, bombers, and even sweatshirts to show the world that beyond making a statement on other issues, he knows how to make a blazer... And therefore, how to assemble, disassemble, and reassemble it with impossible volumes, shapes, and shoulders, giving it a thousand and one different lives.
Beyond his demonstrated and peculiar counter-tailoring exercise, at Balenciaga, Demna has continued to create authentic desirable pieces for Generation Z (and many others): giant sneakers; oversized bags, some printed as if they were shopping bags - let's not forget his trash bag purse, with which he aimed to highlight the situation of Ukrainian refugees; mid-heel booties; plush sandals... A very particular vision of fashion that never fails to make an impact, for better or for worse, and one that he now brings to Gucci.
Demna's mission ahead is to revive the Italian luxury brand, whose poor results have weighed down its parent company, Kering, also the owner of Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta, among other brands. The luxury group saw its net profit plummet by 62% in 2024, largely due to Gucci's sales decline of 23%, down to 7.65 billion euros.