Facing the historic center of Porto, on the south bank of the Douro River, a neon war has always been fought. Each Port wine cellar—and here in Vila Nova de Gaia, they are all there—has its own. But one stands out these days more than the others: KOPKE. Of all the Port wine houses that have achieved worldwide fame, this one, born in 1638, is the oldest. It is also the latest news in the Douro. Not only because of the restoration of its centuries-old cellars, but also because since this spring, it is also a sumptuous hotel in many ways, offering the best views of this breathtaking World Heritage city. The new Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia should already be on every traveler's must-visit list.
The union, it must be said, promised. If Kopke is the oldest Port wine cellar in the world, the Tivoli chain, with 92 years of experience in luxury hospitality in Portugal, is the most distinguished in the country. "It's an explosive fusion," emphasizes the hotel's general manager, Francisco Brito. "It has the authenticity and personality of a hotel with history, and this conversion from cellar to accommodation is also something unique in the city. It didn't exist until now."
The imprint of the property owner, Spanish banker Juan Carlos Escotet, is also very visible. Replicas of major works from the Abanca art collection hang on the hotel walls. Original sculptures by artists like Xavier Mascaró can also be seen in many corners of this five-star hotel that spreads over 20,000 m2, divided into several terraces reminiscent of the Douro vineyards. One of them features a large heated pool surrounded by sun loungers. There is also a bar where you can order a portonic, the chicest version of Port wine, to sip on throughout the day. "Hotels no longer sell just accommodation and breakfast," Brito points out. "They have evolved into cultural hubs that mix a lot of experiences: artistic, musical, gastronomic..."
In terms of aesthetics, the Tivoli Kopke does not give up its industrial and winemaking essence. Black is the protagonist, a nod to the iconic Kopke bottle. But warm wine colors dominate both in the 150 rooms and suites and in the common areas. The river enters each of them through their balconies. Also in the spa, one of the hotel's strong points. In its five treatment rooms, one of the star massages uses schist stones, emulating the vineyard, cork wraps, and candles infused with wine. Immersing in the hydrodynamic pool, sauna, and steam bath is also a good plan, especially after spending the day going up and down the wonderful slopes and viewpoints of this very vertical city.
Next to the huge balseiros of the cellar—the large barrels of up to 17,000 liters—where Kopke keeps its Ruby-style reds, and the barrels where the Tawny-style wines age, the obligatory Port wine tasting is another experience. Even some of the rarest and unique ones can be enjoyed at the Wine Bar and in the hotel's restaurants.
And this is where another name must be added, that of Nacho Manzano. In his Portuguese adventure, the Asturian chef from Casa Marcial, with three Michelin stars, divides his work between the Boa Vista restaurant, an informal concept with dishes to share, and 1638, the fine dining space with a tasting menu that changes every two months. It is a blind dinner, where the diner only knows in advance the sensations that await with each dish, but not its ingredients... A perfect finish of surprises and flavor on this Douro shore.
Above, the covered pool of the spa. Below, one of the treatment rooms.
| Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia. With 150 rooms, outdoor and indoor pool, spa, cellar, and two restaurants led by Spanish chef Nacho Manzano. Starting from 240 euros/night. More information at tivolihotels.com.