"Milan, how could it not be," writes the famous American fashion photographer and author of the blog The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman, every time he posts one of his photos of stylish Milanese walking the streets of this overwhelming city. Milan is a continuous festival of fashion and design, where appearances matter. In a good way and in every corner. Since the Universal Exposition, Expo Milano 2015, the energy has not stopped circulating and enveloping this cosmopolitan city beyond the usual places. It takes more days each time to explore the Lombard capital. In these lines, we will try to make the most of 48 hours. The truth is that just at the fascinating Prada Foundation, already one of the must-sees, the traveler can easily spend a whole day.
Malpensa or Linate. Choose an airport and get ready for the bustling Milanese rush hour. But even the traffic jam is worth it when the Milano Verticale awaits, an urban design hotel born from the latest architectural and economic impulse of Milan in the Porta Nuova - Garibaldi district. Surrounded by skyscrapers designed by renowned architects, it is best to acclimate by enjoying a Milanese aperitif (before dinner).
To do so, head to one of the bars and cafes along the water in Navigli, the picturesque district of the ancient canals partly designed by Leonardo da Vinci, where vintage shops and bookstores have also settled. These days, small lights illuminate the canals from side to side, creating a magical atmosphere. The charming Mag Café is a good stop for an Aperol Spritz and an antipasto.
To reach the Prada Foundation, built in a former distillery away from the center, the best way is by metro. The contemporary art complex consists of 10 buildings, seven of them industrial and renovated, and three new ones. All conceived by OMA, the firm of Rem Koolhaas. It is a place where art and architecture blend in a dazzling way. It also boasts a magnificent restaurant on the 6th and 7th floors of the tower. Don't miss the Bar Luce, the café designed by the American film director Wes Anderson that recreates the atmosphere of a typical Milanese café.
'Tears for everybody's looking at you', artwork by Damien Hirst at the Prada Foundation.
The yellow subway line takes us in a few minutes to the Duomo itself, a colossal temple and the nerve center of tourism. The Milanese cathedral leaves visitors speechless. It is worth going up to the terrace, a heavenly rooftop from where you can better admire the 135 spires and statues that crown them. Alternatively, another superb view is from the top floor of the Rinascente department store, a perfect place to sit down for a meal outdoors and then fill your suitcase with gourmet products. Keep an eye out for the panettone festival. Definitely worth seeing.
The power of Milanese fashion is evident in the famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan's "living room" with the complete repertoire of Prada, Gucci, or Louis Vuitton, etc. The stimuli are so overwhelming that you don't know where to look, whether up at the magnificent glass domes or down at the mosaic floors. One mosaic, in particular, stands out: the bull that crowds of people step on the testicles of for good luck. In addition to the high fashion emporiums, the gallery also houses several historic shops, such as the Bocca bookstore, the oldest in the country, and Casa Ricordi, a shop and publisher of classical music.
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.M.G.H.
In fact, its founder, Giovanni Ricordi, acquired the archives of La Scala. The legendary theater where Giuseppe Verdi began his career is located just across the gallery. Today, in addition to performances 300 days a year, it offers visitors a guided tour of its facilities, including the stalls and, these days, entrance to an exhibition on Puccini's successes.
We are just steps away from the so-called Quadrilatero della moda, all glamour, and the most expensive shopping street in the world. Along Via Montenapoleone and its stunning shop windows, huge and luxurious bags and logos of the most exquisite fashion houses stroll by.
The good news is that to escape the shopping frenzy, you just have to head to Sempione Park, a delightful green carpet with tree-lined streets and essential museums, such as the Design Museum of the Triennale. On the other side stands the imposing Sforzesco Castle with over 600 years of history. Da Vinci designed the fortress defenses, including the underground tunnels that once connected Sforzesco with the church and convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie.
The Dominican monks who still inhabit it are, of course, the custodians of the painting that Ludovico il Moro commissioned Leonardo da Vinci in 1494 to beautify the refectory. Today, to contemplate The Last Supper, a prior reservation is essential. And as such a masterpiece undoubtedly whets the appetite, nothing like booking a table at Gloria Osteria, a restaurant from the Big Mamma group with warm and striking decor and, on the menu, traditional Italian dishes.
The glamorous Gloria Osteria, located a few steps from Sforzesco Castle.
After breakfast at Milano Verticale, it's time to explore the neighborhood. Porta Nuova, between the lively Corso Como and Garibaldi, is a showcase of cutting-edge architecture. Milan's miniature Manhattan where highlights include the Unicredit Tower, the skyscraper by César Pelli that ends in a shard shape and is currently the tallest in Italy. Also, the apartment blocks with hanging gardens by Stefano Boeri and a modern greenhouse created by Herzog & de Meuron housing the Feltrinelli Foundation. Beyond iconic buildings, the neighborhood has a vibrant street life. Many travelers cannot resist the temptation to visit Eataly Milan Smeraldo, a perfect place to take home the obligatory gourmet souvenir. But there are shops of all styles and flavors, some as unique as 10 Corso Como, the essential concept store in the neighborhood. It is one of those places where you can have a coffee, buy clothes from well-known brands, and spend two hours in a bookstore that combines design objects with books on photography, art, architecture, and travel.
Design, books, fashion, coffee... at the 10 Corso Como store, next to Porta Garibaldi.
We are also a stone's throw from the bohemian district of Brera, full of cafes, shops, galleries, and museums. Tree-lined and cobblestone streets, pastel-colored houses with beautiful balconies, and prestigious Milanese institutions paint the picture in this neighborhood where it is very easy to be entertained. The melancholic can take refuge in the Orto Botanico di Brera, the delightful botanical garden open on weekends. Art enthusiasts, on the other hand, should head to the Pinacoteca di Brera, which has just expanded its holdings (and its cultural offerings) thanks to the recent addition of the Palazzo Citterio. And gastronomy lovers can try their luck at Osteria da Fortunata. A great place to enjoy artisan pasta, as well as ossobuco and risotto alla milanese, the essential local dishes. Part of the charm is watching them prepare everything in front of the diner. The only downside is that there is always a line. A good sign.