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A sleepless night hunting the Northern Lights

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Centennial forests and absolute silence surround a former ski resort turned into an accommodation to enjoy the glacial nature. Welcome to Arctic Giant Birdhouse, a legendary place

The dance of the Northern Lights as darkness falls in the remote Finnish region of Wild Taiga.
The dance of the Northern Lights as darkness falls in the remote Finnish region of Wild Taiga.CONCHA FERNÁNDEZ

The curtain opens, revealing a Spanish man in the Arctic lakes region of Finland, ready to embark on a snowmobile safari over what seems like tons of snow. The owner of the Arctic Giant Birdhouse hotel then rushes to get a thermal suit for the Spanish man to survive the adventure in sub-zero temperatures. Welcome to Wild Taiga, a remote and unknown region, halfway between Helsinki and the Arctic Circle, with many icy attractions. Among them, this unforgettable hotel where travelers receive a masterclass in humility before the powerful mother nature, here in its wildest and most glacial version. Pure magic.

The snowmobile excursion through this centennial forest in the heart of the Nordic country is a must. The desolation of the landscape is as striking as its beauty, and once the engines stop, the silence is the most absolute you have ever heard. The snowmobile is also the best ally to explore the surroundings of this hotel perched high on the Kivesvaara mountain in the town of Paltamo.

Perched, indeed. Arctic Giant is the dream of Anja Homanen, her husband Vesa, and their children Antti and Lida. In 2007, during a blueberry picking excursion, they fell in love with this old ski resort, abandoned for a long time. So much so that they bought it to turn it into a hotel with a very special purpose: to watch the Northern Lights from the most exquisite comfort.

In Finland, nights are usually dark enough to observe this celestial spectacle from late August to April. Stepping into a cabin at Arctic Giant Birdhouse feels like being a bird in its nest. The contrast between the arctic rigors outside and the interior comfort couldn't be more extreme. Thick carpets on the wooden floor, candles and blankets everywhere, furs enveloping an adjustable bed, reclining armchairs to not miss a detail of the Northern night entering the room through the huge windows...

Anja gives the instructions for the sauna: "you can light it whenever you want. It reaches 72 degrees Celsius, and the heat lasts about six hours." Outside, the traveler is awaited by the hot tub for a promising night. Anja checks her phone: "the sky looks very promising for the Northern Lights dance." But before that, another pleasant surprise: the locally sourced menu prepared by Lida, the family's chef. Nettle soup and moose and pork meat pie with mashed potatoes and beetroot are delicious. Everything is served on giant tableware... Lida then tells the legend of giants who loved birds and lived on this mountain. "That's why each cabin is like a birdhouse."

Believe what you want. But beware, the Finnish archives mention three men from here who were among the tallest in the world: Daniel Cajanus, Väinö Myllyrinne, and Lauri Moilanen. All three were around 2.5m tall. In any case, it is clear that the experience at this hotel places the Wild Taiga region at the top of the world's most fabulous nature destinations.