The neon lights, towering skyscrapers, loud pop music, otaku aesthetics, illuminated skyscrapers, karaoke bars, the noise of arcades hiding absurd treasures... It seems like everything in Japan leads to a very urban, ultra-modern, and fast-paced idea of life, where people are tiny anonymous specks floating in mega-cities like Tokyo or Osaka. Everything? No (and here we could take a closer look like in the Asterix comics drawn by Uderzo). Not everything, because there are small villages that resist the passage of time and remain preserved as they were decades, even centuries ago. As if the impressive snowfalls they receive in winter had frozen their streets, houses, way of life, and remained in the same place, but in another era.
All of this is found in the center of Japan's main island, in the area known as the Japanese Alps, and Shirakawago, Gokayama, and Ainokura are the villages that proudly display that banner of tradition. The first, in fact, is a regular on Japan's lists of the most beautiful towns in the country, where they are very fond of rankings. And all of them champion a concept of slow tourism that is gaining more and more followers: not just adding more pins to the map of places visited, but immersing oneself in the calmness and appreciation for the craftsmanship of detail that still characterizes the Japanese spirit.
Shirakawago is the village of gassho-zukuri style houses, with their high thatched roofs shaped like an inverted V. Any Japanese person asked about the houses in this town will make a praying gesture with their hands. In fact, its name could be translated as "houses for praying hands," due to the shape of its roofs. In total, there are 59 historic houses here, and many of them are open to visitors, such as the Kanda House, an impressive four-story wooden construction with an attic, where you can see antique clothing, early 20th-century farming tools, and even a wall telephone installed in 1890.
You may smell smoke during the visit. There's no need to worry: every day they light a fire in the main hall on the ground floor to ward off wood-devouring insects from the roof.
One of these historic houses has been converted into a public rest area open for free, to cool off a bit, take off your shoes, and lay down on bamboo mats to watch people go by.
In addition to occasional visits, such as to the Shirakawa Hachimangu shrine, a true haven of peace, the most enjoyable thing in this village is to wander its streets and enjoy the valley, looking for the best perspective for a photograph of the whole scene: with water lilies, with a temple in the background, or with colorful flowers in summer. Even better, climb to the Ogimachi viewpoint, from where you can overlook the perfectly defined valley and the village at a glance, wondering how life has stopped in time and yet Shirakawago is not just a postcard, but a village where children ride their bikes and occasionally the sound of field work can be heard in the distance.
This charm of an image of Japan that seemed lost in time is accentuated in Gokayama, a few kilometers away, where the first thing that catches your eye is its peculiar access: from the parking lot, you descend and walk through a pedestrian tunnel to reach the valley. Here, tourist-focused spots are in the minority, although there are places like the Arai noodle stand where you can try the typical gohei-mochi, a kind of large rice lollipop bathed in a delicious sauce, and noodles with vegetables that may seem extravagant to our eyes. In both this village and Shirakawago, you have to forget about typical souvenirs and focus on local craftsmanship, especially on silk scarves (which have been made in the gassho attics for centuries) and on wooden or bamboo mobiles and wind chimes.
In Gokayama, there are about twenty of these traditional houses, and it's worth finding the viewpoint that starts from the parking lot to admire the whole scene, with the intensely yellow-green rice fields in summer, like Van Gogh brushstrokes when freshly harvested.
Just a few kilometers away is the third of these traditional villages, Ainokura, the most authentic of all, where even in high season, hardly any tourists arrive. However, you need to have a keen eye: what appears to be just a residence may house accommodation or a dining place. Daily life goes on, and it's a good place to chat with the friendly locals (or at least try with gestures) and find a spot to watch the sunset over the terraced rice fields.
Takayama as a Base of Operations
These visits are very easy to organize from the Takayama bus station, the reference town in this area of Gifu prefecture. It's best to book in advance and take the first transport (Nohi Bus) of the day to make the most of the day. Alternatively, you can optimize your time by renting a car. The strict caution of Japanese drivers compensates for the challenges of driving on the right side and using the left lane.
In any case, Takayama is not just a good base of operations but a whole attraction in itself, with a historic center much more than picturesque around the Miyagawa River. Don't let yourself be put off by some 1970s-style hotels that have sprung up on the outskirts: strolling along the axis traced by the Kaji-bashi bridge with its two bronze sculptures (one with long legs and the other with huge arms) also means stepping back in time, an invitation to take short steps and stop to admire the details.
In the mornings, it's best to go to the Miyagawa local products market, overlooking the river. Even if you don't get up early, there will always be a street stall open to try the renowned Hida beef, which is raised in the area, on skewers slowly cooked over low heat on barbecues. Or the meat and onion buns. The gastronomic offer is extensive, but the meat options always stand out. And a coffee and a fluffy cheesecake at Don café, which has been offering a calm corner and almost family-like service since 1951.
After tasting the delicacies, it's essential to stroll through the historic center, the Sanmachi Suji, which boils down to three long streets that have retained all the flavor of the flourishing Edo period (17th century). It's true that among its low wooden houses, there are hardly any inhabited homes left, but many are open to visitors, especially the sake breweries where you can taste this almost sacred liquor for the Japanese and the kimono shops, a way to turn memories of this part of Japan into authentic prêt-à-porter. Even some of the most popular leisure options seem anchored in the past, like the archery galleries.
If you want to get away from tourist groups and continue enjoying a slow visit, it's the perfect opportunity to go to the Higashiyama temples, a route of about three kilometers where you can sit almost alone at any time to watch the sunset.
At night, life (without excesses) is limited to Takayama's red-light district, Asahimachi, where dark bars alternate with highly recommended food stalls.